[TPR] Asa's progress

Wed Aug 12 21:43:15 PDT 2015

Just about finished the carb tonight after running into some necessary 
changes; all this prior to mounting on the car.

I found the choke fast idle cam was broken and missing the bob-weight.  
The one on my current Holley was fine.  I swapped the cam to the rebuilt 
3310.  Then I had planned on using my existing choke cover except that 
it really should have manifold heat (it's not electric), but the passage 
in the intake is blocked because the heater gizmo didn't fit properly 
when I rebuilt the engine.  So I thought about using the electric that 
came with the 3310, except that it was kind of funky with a hand 
soldered connection on one side; I didn't really trust it.  Then my 
long-term memory kicked in and I scrounged through some old drawers with 
Mustang parts.

Aha!  An older Motocraft electric choke cover in great condition.  It 
might not be calibrated for Holley but it's essentially the same.  So I 
put that on.  Oh, but did I mention I don't really have an electric 
supply to the choke?  More on this later.

Then I noticed the linkage wasn't nearly the same.  I thought it was 
close but didn't worry about it until tonight.  Argh!

I thought about swapping the base plates, but the 3310 has larger bores; 
that wouldn't work.

I thought about swapping throttle shafts, but the screws in the throttle 
plates are staked and it's too much work to swap; that wouldn't work.

As it turned out, the funky (I actually think it's GM) lever on the 
primaries had a nice hole in just about the right spot where the linkage 
needs to hook up.  And it just so happened that I had a spare ball post 
that I could mount there.  Nearly perfect!  We'll check the entire 
throttle throw once we have it mounted on the car.

However, when I went to swap the electric throttle positioner which 
holds the idle when the car is running and allows the throttle plates to 
-completely- close when the ignition is switched off, I found the 
accelerator pump mechanism is larger and in-the-way of mounting the 
electric positioner.  Argh!

Well, I -could- swap the pump lever from my existing carb but it's got a 
lighter spring assembly and I'm not sure it would be calibrated 
correctly (spring-tension-wise).  And I don't -really- need the electric 
positioner if I dial the idle in correctly, so let's just leave it off

Well, wouldn't you know... that leaves me a 12V source that's only ON 
when the ignition is ON.  Now where could I possibly use that?  OH!  I 
know.... how about the electric choke?  Yea, that'll work.

All that's left is to mount the fuel lines, do a final adjust on the 
floats and hit the road.  But before I get that far I have a couple more 
parts to get.

The supply line on the car is a 5/16" metal tube, which means I need a 
5/16" hose barb fitting to 3/8" NPT fitting to the supply line on the 
carb.  I can pick one up at Napa tomorrow.  The ported vacuum on my 
present Holley is the small size, same as the vacuum advance on the 
distributor.  The ported on this 3310 is about twice the size so I need 
to get a reducer and some hose.  I'm currently running the dual 
diaphragm vacuum advance, and no it's not necessarily been dialed in 
properly.  I really need someone with a distributor machine, or I need 
to cough up the money for a whizbang electronic distributor with 
computer controlled advance/retard.  But you know... if I go that far I 
might as well buy a fuel injection system that can take advantage of 
that. <sigh>

Everything else seems to be alright.  OH, one last thing.

I sighted in the level on the intake pad, it' has a slight forward tilt; 
that's expected on the Pantera.  Some time ago I purchased a 
"wedge-plate" to try and level it up.  When I test fit it tonight and 
checked level, it had about twice as much tilt to the rear as the 
manifold did to the front without the wedge.  So I'm not going to put 
the wedge on.  What I really need is a wedge at about half the angle 
this one is.

My thoughts are to set final float level on the bench by rigging the 
base to be at about the same angle as the intake on the car, then 
priming the fuel bowls manually and adjusting the floats via the sight 
holes.  Since the needle and seats are at the far ends of the fuel bowls 
and the floats nearer the meter blocks, I think I need to set the front 
(primary) to be just a touch high, and the rear to be just a touch low.  
That should give me approximately the same amount of fuel in each.  Any 
thoughts from other experts?

Alright, enough of a tome for tonight, more tomorrow.
Asa  Jay

Asa Jay Laughton - W7TSC, MSgt, USAFR, Retired
&  Shelley Marie
Spokane, WA
******************************
http://www.racingagainstautism.com
http://www.teampanteraracing.com
http://facebook.com/racingagainstautism

On 8/10/2015 9:37 PM, Teampantera via TPR wrote:
> You need to write a book 😂
> I mean a tech story for POCA Newsletter
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Aug 10, 2015, at 9:00 PM, Asa Jay Laughton via TPR<tpr at teampanteraracing.com>  wrote:
>>
>> Tonight I got most of the carb back together.  All that's left is the vacuum secondary and choke, then make all adjustments.  Somehow I ordered the wrong secondary diaphragm, it's too short.  I checked on-line and I was supposed to get the -4 model, not the -2.  ARGH!  Well as luck would have it, a local speed shop has them in stock so I can pick one up locally tomorrow.  I'll save a few dollars on shipping that way.  :)
>>
>> I also installed an anti-backfire check ball in the primary power valve circuit.  There's a neat kit you can buy that comes with a drill bit, positive stop, spring, check ball and retainer.  It will let you do two power valve circuits.  Unfortunately, on the 3310 base plate, the secondary circuit uses a transfer slot so you can't install the check ball.  But, as I examined things, I did find the throttle body hadn't been drilled for the secondary power valve.  That's not surprising actually since the carb originally came with a secondary metering block and no power valve; hence no need to drill the vacuum passage for it.
>>
>> So I carefully drilled it out and now I'll have a vacuum circuit to the secondary power valve.  I probably didn't really need it, but now it will work.
>>
>> Done for tonight though.
>> Asa Jay
>>
>> Asa Jay Laughton - W7TSC, MSgt, USAFR, Retired
>> &   Shelley Marie
>> Spokane, WA
>> ******************************
>> http://www.racingagainstautism.com
>> http://www.teampanteraracing.com
>> http://facebook.com/racingagainstautism
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> TPR mailing list
>> TPR at teampanteraracing.com
>> http://teampanteraracing.com/mailman/listinfo/tpr_teampanteraracing.com
> _______________________________________________
> TPR mailing list
> TPR at teampanteraracing.com
> http://teampanteraracing.com/mailman/listinfo/tpr_teampanteraracing.com
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2015.0.6125 / Virus Database: 4392/10416 - Release Date: 08/11/15