[TPR] Checking the specs,Asa's current Mach I engine

Mad Dog Antenucci teampantera at yahoo.com
Fri Jul 6 15:25:31 PDT 2012


Duuuuude no worries...everyone knows you gots lot on your plate....and everyone knows you are doing it all yourself too....Yes you DA MAN...


________________________________
 From: "asajay at asajay.com" <asajay at asajay.com>
To: tpr at teampanteraracing.com 
Sent: Friday, July 6, 2012 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: [TPR] Checking the specs,Asa's current Mach I engine
 
Nope, you didn't come across as negative and I didn't take it that way.

Yes, Dawg understands I'm a sensitive type too, and I appreciate him  
looking out for me.  The trouble is... well... all the -trouble- I'm  
running into.  It's creating increased frustration.  It doesn't mean I  
don't value the opinions of others here.  What everyone needs to  
understand are two things:  First, I've wanted to race at SSCC for a  
while, second, this engine build was my baby.

I've been trying to -drive- at SSCC for over four years.
- In 2008 the car wasn't ready, so I played Pit Crew for Dawg.
- In 2009, Sam had major surgery and I couldn't be away for that.
- In 2010 and 2011, I had work commitments that would not allow me to  
go (and may again in the future, but NOT in 2012)
- A modest raise at work in the last year (and selling some old stuff)  
has allowed me to save a little so I began budgeting for a 2012 attack.
- $1,300 went out for new coil-over shocks.
- $500 went out for new wheels
- $500 went for a new radiator (that arrived trashed)
- About $800 was budgeted for new tires (still don't have)
- I figured maybe $100 in various parts to do the engine swap

I'm sucking it up and getting into the whole engine swap from the Mach  
I scenario and then I pull the spark plugs only to find a problem with  
#6.  Now...
- The block is out for cleaning, brushing and decking, $100 (or so)
- The crank is out for polishing $50
- The heads are out for cleaning, inspection and possible shaving ($150)
- New Bearings, $200
- New Rings, $50
- Gaskets and seals (the good stuff), $100
- Various other pieces to put it all back together (this is still the  
unknown quantity here), $100

So, the engine swap has gone from an estimated $100 to nearly $700.  
I'm not very happy.  What I'm more disappointed in, is the fact this  
engine had bearings that looked trashed and a fouled plug.  That  
engine hardly had any miles on it.  I tried to take great pains to  
make sure I built it -right-.  As I recall I did all the right things  
the first time around, including having the block decked and the heads  
shaved.

Apparently I didn't do -something- right.  Yes, it's been 10 years,  
but the overwhelming majority of that time has been sitting in the  
driveway not being driven.  Like I said, it probably has less than 10K  
miles on it.  But it also had an oil accumulator on it with an  
electric switch, so that I could always pressurize the system prior to  
starting.

Of course now... that may have contributed to the bearing problem too.  
  If I didn't take enough care to make sure all the lines were  
perfectly clean, blah, blah, blah.

In the end, I'm depressed with myself, trying to save money to make it  
to SSCC in this 25th year anniversary, and I keep running into walls.  
I mean, look at the radiator!!!!  For pete's sake, WTF!  The last  
Fluidyne I got came in a -heavy- cardboard box and surrounded by foam.  
  It's things like this that just keep pissing me off and making me  
think God doesn't want me to do this.

Sorry for the rant, I just wanted you to know I'm not taking any of  
the advice negatively  It's the overall situation that's causing a  
negative vibe on my end, but it's not  because of good advice from the  
people here.

:)
Asa Jay

Quoting John Bentley <gndplne at yahoo.com>:

> Asa, Dawg said I sounded negative (he is a little sensitive), but  
> that was not my intention at all, so sorry if it came across that  
> way (just typing as few words as possibly on my iphone in the  
> previous reply).  I'm sincerely trying to say you can't tell by  
> looking at the rings so its just better to replace them.  You da  
> man.  You are doing the right thing by running a flex (ball) hone  
> through it for a light new cross-hatch and slapping in a new set of  
> rings.  Moly rings are great.  Since its taken all the way apart,  
> you gotta just go for the best solution to this fouled plug issue  
> and it wouldn't make sense to reassemble with the old rings since  
> there was no clear problem identified that would result in the  
> fouled plugs.  I hope I'm making sense.  Let us know how the  
> assembly goes.
>
> JB
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>  From: John Bentley <gndplne at yahoo.com>
> To: Asa Jay Laughton <asajay at asajay.com>
> Cc: "tpr at teampanteraracing.com" <tpr at teampanteraracing.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 6, 2012 8:25 AM
> Subject: Re: [TPR] Checking the specs,Asa's current Mach I engine
>
>
> Asa, you can't tell the ring made a good seal by looking at them.  
> Russ probably could but he's a little far from you. You did the  
> right thing but just replacing them. Now is the time!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 5, 2012, at 10:38 PM, Asa Jay Laughton <asajay at asajay.com> wrote:
>
>
> Alright, so after checking the ring sizes to verify the recommended  
> kit, I've now put in an order with Summit for the Sealed Power,  
> Speed-Pro E251K rings as recommended by Russ.  I honestly don't  
> think it would have been a problem; however, I'll defer to the group  
> consensus because I'm more -inexperienced- in this area.  (I usually  
> don't tear down an engine until it makes expensive noises some 15  
> years and 85K miles from the rebuild).
>>
>> Here is a photo of the rings that came out, on a piston that came
>     out, after everything was cleaned:
>> <100_1292.JPG>
>>
>> ... and if you managed to scroll past the photo to read this text,
>     take a look at the nice new Fluidyne Pantera radiator I just got
>     from Summit:
>> http://www.teampanteraracing.com/index.php?option=com_g2bridge&view=gallery&Itemid=57&g2_itemId=5324
>>
>> And PS, if you guys ever go to the TPR web site and it throws an
>     error.... like it's harboring some nasty malware thingy.... Please,
>     PLEASE let me know.  I've been dealing with a problem now for three
>     hours... and that's just -one- domain of 11 I manage that have been
>     hit with this shit.  I've been going through password changes, file
>     restores, manual file modifications, blah, blah, blah....  Hopefully
>     it's all better now, but I'll have to check it all again tomorrow.
>>
>> Oh... and -stupid- me... managed to order only ONE rod bearing...
>     duh.... I thought the price looked a bit low.  The mains all came in
>     though.  I'll have to order seven more rod bearing sets, then wait
>     for the block, crank and heads to be done.  oh... and the new rings
>     to show up.
>>
>> Steve, David, others... I wasn't dissin' you... I was being
>     stubborn, I wanted to use my existing rings... I think they look
>     good.
>>
>> Asa Jay
>>
>> Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired
> & Shelley Marie
> Spokane, WA
> ******************************
> http://www.racingagainstautism.com
> http://www.teampanteraracing.com
> http://facebook.com/racingagainstautism
>> On 7/5/2012 3:04 PM, russell fulp wrote:
>>
>>> Well in response to your question about rings  (The cylinders  
>>> still show cross-hatching, even so I had planned on
>>>> borrowing a ball hone to run in the holes prior to
>         assembly. The
>>>> rings still have gobs of tension. I hate to spend even more
>         money I The piston rings you would need for your econo-build  
> would only cost you about  $ 60.00  Or less !
>>>> hadn't budgeted, on rings. What's the downside of using
>         them again? If you install the rings in the same cylinder  
> they came out of. Providing they were sealed then!! would be O.K. 
>>>> Especially if they didn't seat the first time?
>>>>
>>>> ... and further to that question, what rings would you
>         recommend?) I would just use a Speed- Pro pregapped ring #  
> E251K which is a moly ring
>>>>
>>> I'm not trying to tell you what to do , Asa just suggesting
>         strongly by what I have run across
>>>
>>> Russ
>>> B.L. Machine & Russ Fulp Race Engines
>>> 1100 E. Orangefair Lane Unit E           
>>> Anaheim, Ca. 92801
>>> 714-870-8570
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>>
> _______________________________________________
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>         07/05/12
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